Margaret Howell on older models

Isn't this a fantastic photo of Margaret Howell? Apologies for not crediting the photographer, I found it on Pinterest and haven't managed to trace it back yet. Last week, I went along to listen to the notoriously private designer in conversation with Gentlewoman editor Penny Martin, at the V&A. This was Howell's first ever public talk, so it was a big deal - and a full house. As a part-time lecturer myself, I'm always interested to hear other people speak, I'm always on the look out for helpful tips and anecdotes to perk up my own performance. One of my favourite Howell comments was, ' I used to get quite nervous and can remember mum saying, "All you can do is your best."' Her best is pretty damn good in my opinion:

Discussing the early 1970s days, the Annie Hall period, she paid tribute to slow fashion, ' I spent about five years doing men's shirts, then I did a jacket, then trousers,' and on the Margaret Howell aesthetic, ' People used to say it was like putting on an old friend, and there is something in that. The style is not smart and chic, it's quality, but relaxed quality.' A lovely selection of images accompanied the talk: old family photos - including a fabulous picture of Howell's very stylish parents walking on a beach, in what looked like the 1920s (baggy trousers, mum's hair in a bob) and one of the designer as netball captain at school, this was one of my personal favourites (I was netball captain too). On the closure of her local pool in Ladywell, south London (Mr TNMA swam there as a boy), the 66-year-old remarked, 'I was hoping that with the Olympics, they would realise that people like swimming.' Sadly not. And discussing her athletic side, ' When you're in a pressured business, you have to have some form of exercise.'

Photo by Jill Kennington. National Portrait Gallery

I was interested to hear that Howell has been curating her archive, ' The aim is to build a story for future designers that come and join the company. To give a foundation to the look, to follow, to modernise. And maybe, maybe, one day turn it into a book.' A Margaret Howell book. Yes please.

Photos: Margaret Howell Irish Linen, summer 2013.

At the end of the talk, there was a very brief opportunity to ask questions, 'Is anyone brave enough?' asked Penny Martin. And up went my wobbly hand. Howell is one of my favourite designers and I properly love her work, but couldn't resist asking in a very shaky voice,' Er, hello, sorry I'm really nervous - oh god my voice is going, I sound like Gwyneth Paltrow. I love your aesthetic and what you do, ahem, but I can't help wondering why you don't use older models?' Gulp. And the reply:

'I would love to, and have done so in with past collections, it is a bone of contention. But sometimes...working with the press, we have to keep them happy.'

TNMA:' But people would love to see older women, women like you or me - with wrinkles.'

And then Penny Martin jumped in, saying she thought Howell did use womanly models, not young girls. That the aesthetic has changed and fashion's preference is no longer for fresh-faced teenagers, like Lily Cole. But I disagree. Unfortunately, time was running out and I didn't want to bore on. But Miuccia Prada was asked a similar question recently and she replied:

'Let's say I'm not brave enough, I don't have the courage.'

If there's one designer who has the power to make the industry change, it's Miuccia Prada. I think it's terribly sad if strong female designers feel that the pressure from the media is so intense, they can't put their clothes on older models. Women who look more like them. Women who buy their clothes.

Image from Margaret Howell's spring/summer 2013 lookbook.

Model with more of an ageless look/face: Margaret Howell A/W 2013 catwalk

What do you think?