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Thursday, 16 September 2010

The Menswear Manifesto



In the name of equality, and because I'm not attending New York fashion week, That's Not My Age has decided it's time to focus on grown-up menswear. But first let's set the record straight, that's not Mr TNMA in the photo, he is very shy, a confirmed atheist who would rather go and wave at the pope than appear on this blog. It's Nicholas Fugler, 50, director of retail at Jermyn Street tailors, New & Lingwood who puts a vexed generation at ease when he says, 'You grow into your style in your forties.'

Though I don't consider myself a menswear expert, I'd like to think that by surreptitiously easing Mr TNMA out of his ageing rocker uniform of baggy Rolling Stones' tour t-shirt and skinny black jeans and into a wardrobe of timeless basics I have a certain first-hand knowledge. But, in order to compose a proper grown-up guide to menswear, I enlisted the help of a couple of style experts of a certain age: Mr James Anderson and Mr Paul Tierney.




And this is what they said:

Do
1. Go more Savile Row than Carnaby Street. Buy good design not cheap shit and choose classic heritage brands.
2. Opt for a clean cut look. You can get away with being scruffy and grubby when you're younger but have to make a bit more effort after 40, or risk looking like a complete loser.
3. Have a range of instant throw-ons in your wardrobe; cotton v-necks, cashmere sweaters, classic 501's/Japanese selvedge jeans, chinos.
4. Buy proper shoes, like a good solid brogue. A shoe made on a last, will last!
5. Be proud to be eccentric but don't end up looking like Jon Snow. A novelty tie does not add character to any outfit.


Don't
1. Worry about what style magazines say, half the people who work for them don't practise what they preach.
2. Avoid short-sleeved shirts, far too company rep.
3. Wear a fleece - it'll add twenty years to your age.
4. Try not to get stuck in a decade, the Top Gun bomber jacket belongs in the eighties.
5. Get preoccupied with seasonal trends. Leave the jaunty man bags and décolletage to Cristiano Ronaldo.


And now for some gratuitous pictures of men who do get it right:









From top: Hamish Bowles, Joe Casely-Hayford, Guy Pierce, Malcolm McClaren, John Malkovich, David Bowie, Jarvis Cocker.


Do you know anyone who needs to follow the menswear manifesto?



Photos
Nicholas Fugler: Fashionistable, Hamish Bowles: The Sartorialist, Joe Casely-Hayford: Lulu Kennedy, Guy Pierce: Daily Mail, Malcolm McClaren Sun-Times, John Malkovich: MySpace, David Bowie: NME, Jarvis Cocker: Eamonn McCabe.

16 comments:

  1. Living on Long Island in New York State, I can honestly say that almost every day I encounter men of a certain age who have no idea how to dress. The problem here, I believe, is that they didn't really dress well when they were younger and have just let those baseball caps, long shorts, sports team shirts, etc. carry on in their wardrobe year after year. It only makes them look sloppy and sad at any age!

    I would be happy to be seen in public with any of the gentlemen you featured in this post; they all look so pulled-together and sure of themselves :)

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  2. Funny, I was just thinking of how MrB hasn't worn/owned a pair of jeans as long as I've known him.

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  3. I'm lucky, I've got a cool, well-dressed bloke who needs no guidance in the sartorial department.
    Not sure about Levi 501's, far too 1980's for my liking but I'll let it go seeing as you've popped a gratutious shot of my boy, Jarvis Cocker into the post. xxx

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  4. Jennifer - wow, Long Island how fantastic! (apart from the dressed-down-men-of-a-certain-age that is) Haven't really addressed casualwear in the manifesto. Perhaps it's best avoided.

    Vix - you can have John Malkovich, leave Jarvis to me!

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  5. Brilliant post, love the photos.You are sooooo good.

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  6. Mine has obviously never seen No. 2 in the 'do' list. Admittedly its a bit shabby, but in a good way?

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  7. Will have to let dear husband read this TONIGHT!

    great post!

    xo

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  8. This has inspired me execute a drastic wardrobe detox whilst Mr BB is abroad

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  9. Husband is an ex-military man and has a 'uniform' for every occasion. This doesn't stop him appearing in items his teenage daughters will tease him about, but does mean he has a non-fashion/traditional-look that changes only in the detail. However he's just started re-training as a teacher, and already I've noticed a more casual (I hesitate to say scruffy) approach to workwear...

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  10. hausfrau - he'll be wearing jumbo cords and jackets with elbow patches before you know it!

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  11. Um..yes! LOL. My husband's very slender and we have finally convinced him that slim cut is best.
    I could write a book, but will stop there.

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  12. That second sentence is genius! I've got one pic of hubs from the waist down, he's also horrified by the whole concept.

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  13. Yes, 'im indoors also needs a drastic wardrobe detox!

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  14. I think that's great advice. The Actor lives in his selvedge jeans although he can do smart very well. I shall be showing him this post.

    What a fabulous selection of men too! xx

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